Wine Republic: Argentina

There are over nine hundred wineries in Mendoza. That´s about one winery for every 89 people of the metropolitan area, and come February, each and every one of them will be gathering in celebrationof Vendimia, Mendoza’s largest festival. It´s a salute to harvest timewhen 150,000 hectares of vineyards are stripped of their fruit and a hopeful tradition symbolizing the prosperity of the year to come.

Vendimia was born in the 1600´s when the local population commemorated the annual harvest by blessing the grapes with thanks to their patron saint, and selecting the most beautiful young maiden to be their harvest queen. In 1936 the governor of Mendoza decreed it an official event. Since that time Festival de Vendimia continues to annually upstage itself. Queens are proudly showcased in a Miss Universe-style election, attended by roughly 40,000 cheering spectators. Glamorous parades fill the street and dozens of cultural celebrations of art, music and film are held. It’s a time when Mendoza is bubbling with big fun and big hopes. So, fill up your wine glass and empty your memory card; you’re about to experience Vendimia!

FEBRUARY:
Friday 5th. 20:30. Fiesta de la Vendimia de Tunuyán.
Venue: Teatro Municipal, Tunuyán.

LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los Andes
The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed tasting room. Try the famous Cheval de los Andes. Thames and Cochamaba, Perdriel. Tel. 488 0704/5. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Tapiz
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour that includes an invigorating horse and carriage ride and a tank, barrel and bottle tasting. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32, Agrelo. Tel. 490 0202. www.tapiz.com

Norton
Old-style cellars contrast with high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings conducted at this huge facility and the jug fillings on Thursday mornings are popular with the locals. R.P. 15, Km 23.5, Perdriel. Tel. 490 9700. www.norton.com.ar

Renacer
This Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final, one of Mendoza’s best value Malbecs. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863. Tel. 15 454 6023. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

Altos Las Hormigas Bonarda Colonia Las Liebres 2007
This usually sturdy grape gets the soft, fruity treatment from one of Argentina’s most respected wineries. Ripe and dense, it has surprisingly warm tannins. $30

Domaine St. Diego Paradigma 2006
60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright red color, loaded with earthy notes and smoke, soft red fruits of white cherry, cranberry and plum. $35

Mil Piedras Sangiovese 2005
A seductive aroma of ripe, jammy fruit with a subtle hint of white chocolate. This Italian grape has found its home in the Uco Valley producing a delicate, dry wine with good body and crisp acidity. $25

This story starts over 20 years ago when my wife Jan and I found out about the incredible bargains available on around-the-world air fares. We put it off for years but swore the day would come when we would sell everything and take off to circumnavigate the globe.

In May of 2008 our time came. We sold almost everything we owned and hopped on the plane for the adventure of a lifetime. As a wine writer and a trained chef my itinerary leaned heavily towards destinations with grapes and culinary delights. We tasted our way through Eastern Europe and headed for Southeast Asia where we were astounded to find wines being made in India, and even more amazed at the quality of the wines being made in Thailand. We ended our journey savoring the flavors of Chile and Argentina.

As the saying goes: When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Following this logic, when you’re in Argentina, eat, sleep and say it how it is. Below, we have compiled a cheat sheet to clue you in on some of the cultural nuances that make Argentina so very Argentine.

Hellos and Goodbyes
Entering a room full of Argentines takes a while. As is the custom, you should go around and say hello and kiss everyone once on the cheek. Repeat as you leave. And yes, we mean everyone in the room, including babies. If you decide to slink out withoutthe kisses, be aware you run the risk of seeming rude or cold.