Amanda Barnes pulls the cork on some organic wine myths
Myth 1) Organic is better for you: true Most say that organic foods and wines tend to be more nutritious and contain more anti-oxidants (and are thus 'better' for you). But the real issue with organic production is that it is better for the environment and more sustainable.
Myth 2) All wine is a bit organic: false. As you work your way around many vineyards in Mendoza, they might claim that they are 95% organic or very, very natural. This is just marketing. You either are or aren't organic. Wine is obviously a natural product; put a box of grapes in the sun and soon enough you will have wine but the vineyard from where the grapes came can only be organic if it follows strict guidelines of no synthetic chemical, no GM and increased biodiversity etc.
Myth 3) Organic wines don't add sulphur: false. Sulphur is a natural by-product of fermentation so all wine contains it. However sulphur dioxides are added in conventional wine making to inhibit oxidation and bacterial spoilage. Strictly speaking, organic wine would have no added sulphur dioxides but in practice most 'organic wines' add sulphur dioxide although at lower levels. Don't worry though – another myth to dispell is that sulphur is rarely the cause for a headache. It is usually the excessive alcohol.
Myth 4) Organic is expensive: true. A well-managed organic vineyard or farm shouldn't cost much more than a chemical one. However the yield is lower and the labour hours required can make them more expensive. As can the paperwork.
Myth 5) Organic is better quality: N/A That depends on how you measure quality and what you are comparing it to, but it is true that organic vineyards tend to show more artisan-like approaches and more attention to detail which in turn often produces higher quality grapes and thus wine. However, any vineyard with a smaller, more carefully nurtured yield will produce better wine, whether organic or not.
Myth 6) Organic wines use so much copper and sulphate that it isn't worth it in the end: not in Mendoza! Again this depends on the vineyard and the problems it faces. Mendoza is blessed with relatively fungus-free terrain so barely any fungicides are needed whether they be organic or conventional vineyards.
Myth 7) Organic wines don't age well: true. Theoretically the organic juice has the same potential as conventional wines, however organic wines use less sulphates and tannins so possibly have less aging potential. Aging depends on sulphur dioxides, tannins, acidity and alcohol.
Myth 8) Organic wines taste bad: false. Well, if they have rot which has been allowed to ferment, then true – they would taste bad. But if healthy organic grapes are selected then there is no risk of these 'off' flavours. See our recommended organic wines below!
Recommended bottles:
Occioverde, Merlot. The Merlot grape from Uco Valley is one of Mendoza's unsung heroes and this silky fruit bomb is a great example. $25
Jean Bousquet, Gran Reserva Malbec.
"An intense peppery wine with candied fruits and ripe red berries." $55
Zuccardi, Santa Julia, Organic Chardonnay
"A balanced Chardonnay with tropical fruits and green apple. Available outside Argentina."
