The Heart of Argentine Wine
Julia Allen takes a wine tour in Lujan de Cuyo
Believe it or not there are at least 900 wineries in Mendoza, a bewildering number if you have just arrived and wish to drop by and try a few. The question is, which ones? Three hundred of them take visitors but the reality is only a core 20 to 30 wineries are worth visiting in the sense they have good wines, knowledgable winery guides and beautiful locations. The vast majority of these wineries are located in Lujan de Cuyo, the heart of Argentine winemaking. Lujan is located 30 minutes south of the city, out into the vineyards and close to the mountains, and those are what make Mendoza’s winelands look so stunning. When it comes to winery types, Lujan has everything, big and boutique, modern and historical, foreign and Argentine owned. You are sure to find something to your taste and its relative proximity means you can see more wineries and try more wines.
The question is how you get there? Public transport is minimal and renting a car risks a DUI. Also there is the nagging fact that all wineries require pre-booking. I opted to skip the jail time and messy details, and went straight to Mendoza’s best, English-speaking, wine tour company, Trout & Wine. It didnt take much convincing to sign me up for their Lujan de Cuyo tour which involves four wineries. The next morning the van picked me up at my hotel and we set out to experience the wines of Lujan de Cuyo.
Our first visit was the quaint, family-run winery Hacienda del Plata. It is owned by Pablo Gonzalez and as we drove up the gravel path one of his children greeted us at the entrance. Hacienda del Plata’s vines are over 80 years old and reside in the regions of Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo and Junin. They keep the production size small so each barrel gets the personal attention the family desires. Our tour guide was an expert about the process of wine making and in a fun interactive lesson we sampled wines from three barrels during various stages of development. I could distinctly taste how the wine evolution from grape juice to woody oak to wine vinegar, and it made me appreciate the final result all that much more. After our tasting we tromped off to the family house for story time. There our guide regaled us with the legacy of the Gonzalez-Pinto family while illustrating her monologue with charming family photos hanging on the walls. I jokingly asked if there is room in the family for one more. Our guide laughed and said, “No but you can always bring ours home with you. It’s in every bottle.”
Next Stop, Terraza de Los Andes. The grounds are reminiscent of an Italian villa, with a central fountain, large grassy yards and Mediterranean-style architecture. The name Terraza de Los Andes derives from the way they grow their grape varietals; each is planted in the optimum altitude for maximum flavour and quality.
Their tasting room is on the upper floor and looks onto the stainless steel holding tanks below. In the center of the table little bottles filled with distinct aromas were placed to aid our undeveloped noses. They proved to be very helpful when defining the notes of the Torrontes 2008, bursting with sweet pear and pineapple. I couldn´t help but buy a bottle, a steal at $45.75 pesos. The Terraza’s Cheval del Andes 2006 (a $300 peso blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot) was the next in my tasting line-up. On my tongue the tannins attacked with lead-flavoured vengeance, but what do I know? Wine Advocate gave this wine 96 points!
My stomach began to voice its concerns about my two wine breakfasts and I was getting a little tipsy from the generous pourings. Just in time our vibrant guide Marcela whisked us to Bodega Ruca Malen for the five-course lunch. She informed us that the owner of Ruca Malen demands that his wines not be paired with the food but that the food be paired to his wines. Whomever is highlighting what I was not concerned, just glad to be eating!
What was on the menu? 1) The caramelized leek and carrot skewers with a citrus emulsion paired with the Yauquen Sauvignon Blanc 2008. An excellent pallet cleanser. 2) A savoury sweet and sour pork empanada paired with a Yauquen Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. 3) A very unusual pumpkin terrine with sun-dried tomatoes, Merlot sediments and plums, paired with a Ruca Malen Merlot 2005. The texture reminded me of pumpkin pie but with a
hearty, roasted flavor. 4) Succulent grilled beef tenderloin on a vegetable medley paired with the Ruca Malen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and the Kinien Malbec 2007. 5) For dessert, a deliciously refreshing Chardonnay, lemon and rosemary granitee and heavenly dulce-de-leche panna-cotta with fresh fruit. All topped off with a cafe con leche, leaving me delightfully stuffed and relishing in hedonistic consumption.
We finished the day at Renacer, a Chilean-owned boutique winery. As we came through the gate my eyes feasted upon the Frenchstyle garden of ponds, hanging vines and rose bushes. I found a shady spot looking onto the grape vineyards and tried to envision what a Renacer enologist might be thinking while consorting with his grapes. Soon after Tania Piaggi, Ranacer’s Public Relations & Hospitality Professional, came down to meet us. Within moments we were enthralled with her high energy and incredible passion for wine. She toured us through the grounds and up to the tasting room overlooking the gardens.
We started with a little lesson in wine blending. Once educated, the wine-making was in our hands. I measured out my ratios of Malbecs and blend them into one. The activity was entertaining but I don’t think I’ll be getting any credentials from Robert Parker. In the tasting we started with the Punto Final Clasico 2007. It is young with intense berry flavors and was the favourite Renacer wine of the majority in our tasting party; from there the Punto Final Reserva Malbec 2006, Enamore 2007 (a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bonarda) and the Renacer Malbec Gran Reserva 2006. My vote was won over by the Enamore 2007 with its soft, honey sweetness and bold notes of dark fruits and raisins. We took a group photo to document a day well done and sauntered into the air-conditioned van.
I would recommend this tour to anyone who visits Mendoza. The tastings are superb, the wineries beautiful and the guides informative and cheerful. The Valle de Uco tour is next on my list. With great tours, wine, sun and fun, it´s not hard to love Mendoza!
Trout & Wine conducts dailyl tours to Lujan de Cuyo, which conduct tasting at four wineries. Espejo 266, Mendoza. (261) 425 5613. www.troutandwine.com. Price $135 US per person.
Believe it or not there are at least 900 wineries in Mendoza, a bewildering number if you have just arrived and wish to drop by and try a few. The question is, which ones?
Three hundred of them take visitors but the reality is only a core 20 to 30 wineries are worth visiting in the sense they have good wines, knowledgable winery guides and beautiful locations. The vast majority of these wineries are located in Lujan de Cuyo, the heart of Argentine winemaking. Lujan is located 30 minutes south of the city, out into the vineyards and close to the mountains, and those are what make Mendoza’s winelands look so stunning. When it comes to winery types, Lujan has everything, big and boutique, modern and historical, foreign and Argentine owned. You are sure to find something to your taste and its relative proximity means you can see more wineries and try more wines.
The question is how you get there? Public transport is minimal and renting a car risks a DUI. Also there is the nagging fact that all wineries require pre-booking. I opted to skip the jail time and messy details, and went straight to Mendoza’s best, English-speaking, wine tour company, Trout & Wine. It didnt take much convincing to sign me up for their Lujan de Cuyo tour which involves four wineries. The next morning the van picked me up at my hotel and we set out to experience the wines of Lujan de Cuyo.
Our first visit was the quaint, family-run winery Hacienda del Plata. It is owned by Pablo Gonzalez and as we drove up the gravel path one of his children greeted us at the entrance. Hacienda del Plata’s vines are over 80 years old and reside in the regions of Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo and Junin. They keep the production size small so each barrel gets the personal attention the family desires. Our tour guide was an expert about the process of wine making and in a fun interactive lesson we sampled wines from three barrels during various stages of development. I could distinctly taste how the wine evolution from grape juice to woody oak to wine vinegar, and it made me appreciate the final result all that much more. After our tasting we tromped off to the family house for story time. There our guide regaled us with the legacy of the Gonzalez-Pinto family while illustrating her monologue with charming family photos hanging on the walls. I jokingly asked if there is room in the family for one more. Our guide laughed and said, “No but you can always bring ours home with you. It’s in every bottle.”
Next Stop, Terraza de Los Andes. The grounds are reminiscent of an Italian villa, with a central fountain, large grassy yards and Mediterranean-style architecture. The name Terraza de Los Andes derives from the way they grow their grape varietals; each is planted in the optimum altitude for maximum flavour and quality.
Their tasting room is on the upper floor and looks onto the stainless steel holding tanks below. In the center of the table little bottles filled with distinct aromas were placed to aid our undeveloped noses. They proved to be very helpful when defining the notes of the Torrontes 2008, bursting with sweet pear and pineapple. I couldn´t help but buy a bottle, a steal at $45.75 pesos. The Terraza’s Cheval del Andes 2006 (a $300 peso blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot) was the next in my tasting line-up. On my tongue the tannins attacked with lead-flavoured vengeance, but what do I know? Wine Advocate gave this wine 96 points!
My stomach began to voice its concerns about my two wine breakfasts and I was getting a little tipsy from the generous pourings. Just in time our vibrant guide Marcela whisked us to Bodega Ruca Malen for the five-course lunch. She informed us that the owner of Ruca Malen demands that his wines not be paired with the food but that the food be paired to his wines. Whomever is highlighting what I was not concerned, just glad to be eating!
What was on the menu? 1) The caramelized leek and carrot skewers with a citrus emulsion paired with the Yauquen Sauvignon Blanc 2008. An excellent pallet cleanser. 2) A savoury sweet and sour pork empanada paired with a Yauquen Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. 3) A very unusual pumpkin terrine with sun-dried tomatoes, Merlot sediments and plums, paired with a Ruca Malen Merlot 2005. The texture reminded me of pumpkin pie but with ahearty, roasted flavor. 4) Succulent grilled beef tenderloin on a vegetable medley paired with the Ruca Malen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and the Kinien Malbec 2007. 5) For dessert, a deliciously refreshing Chardonnay, lemon and rosemary granitee and heavenly dulce-de-leche panna-cotta with fresh fruit. All topped off with a cafe con leche, leaving me delightfully stuffed and relishing in hedonistic consumption.
We finished the day at Renacer, a Chilean-owned boutique winery. As we came through the gate my eyes feasted upon the Frenchstyle garden of ponds, hanging vines and rose bushes. I found a shady spot looking onto the grape vineyards and tried to envision what a Renacer enologist might be thinking while consorting with his grapes. Soon after Tania Piaggi, Ranacer’s Public Relations & Hospitality Professional, came down to meet us. Within moments we were enthralled with her high energy and incredible passion for wine. She toured us through the grounds and up to the tasting room overlooking the gardens.
We started with a little lesson in wine blending. Once educated, the wine-making was in our hands. I measured out my ratios of Malbecs and blend them into one. The activity was entertaining but I don’t think I’ll be getting any credentials from Robert Parker. In the tasting we started with the Punto Final Clasico 2007. It is young with intense berry flavors and was the favourite Renacer wine of the majority in our tasting party; from there the Punto Final Reserva Malbec 2006, Enamore 2007 (a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bonarda) and the Renacer Malbec Gran Reserva 2006. My vote was won over by the Enamore 2007 with its soft, honey sweetness and bold notes of dark fruits and raisins. We took a group photo to document a day well done and sauntered into the air-conditioned van.
I would recommend this tour to anyone who visits Mendoza. The tastings are superb, the wineries beautiful and the guides informative and cheerful. The Valle de Uco tour is next on my list. With great tours, wine, sun and fun, it´s not hard to love Mendoza!
Trout & Wine conducts dailyl tours to Lujan de Cuyo, which conduct tasting at four wineries. Espejo 266, Mendoza. (261) 425 5613. www.troutandwine.com. Price $135 US per person.
