Argentine still wines are finally taking their rightful place on the world stage. But what of Mendocino bubbly? Nathan Frye goes in search of some fizz.
SEPTIMA
When you make your way to Bodega Septima it quickly lets you know that you have arrived. This bodega, the 'seventh' in a line of nine international wineries owned by the Codorniu company is a modern sandstone-colored edifice flanked by massive stone encrusted production facilities and blessed with a fine view of the Andes . Winemaker Ruben Calvo oversees production of Septima's wines and takes special pride in his exceptionally tasty and reasonably priced 'Maria' bottling, currently reserved only for the domestic market. The 2004 version of this sparkling wine is 80% Chardonnay (all sourced from the cool Valle de Uco) and 20% Pinot Noir; the wine's 9 – 11 grams/liter of residual sugar places it firmly in the Brut category. We were fortunate enough to taste the base wines (the tart still wines that are blended together before undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle) for Calvo's 2005 'Maria', they showed great promise. Ruben hopes to add another sparkling wine to the 'Maria' line made entirely of Pinot Noir, it should make a tasty accompaniment to your favorite Patagonian salmon.
LUIGI BOSCA
Bodega Luigi Bosca is a long-time player on the local wine scene, best known for their high-end 'Finca Los Nobles' line of wines they have branched off into many directions and to many quality levels. Winemaker Jose Hernandez Toso is the firm hand in command of Bosca's ultra-premium and attractively bottled sparkling wine 'Boheme.' This full-bodied offering uses all three traditional Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) the latter grape providing the boldly rich and youthful fruitiness to the blend. In a unique move, Jose places a portion of the base wine in French oak for a spell before conducting the second fermentation. As with many wines made in the traditional method 'Boheme' spends 24 months on its lees following its second fermentation, adding nuance and complexity to the finished wine.
ROSELL-BOHER
Alejandro Martinez Rosell's team at Rosell-Boher are dedicated to making very special ultra-premium wines. This operation annually creates up to 30,000 bottles of sparkling wine solely produced by the traditional method, they are striving to blend the spirit of Champagne with the soil of Mendoza . This small operation sources its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from both Maipu and the cooler climes of Tupungato further south, all the while investing time and energy into isolating the best clones for these specific regions. Everything detail is labored over, free-run juice from whole clusters of grapes undergoes a generously slow 45 – 60 day fermentation followed by at least 30 months of lees contact following the second fermentation, this is the royal treatment. The Brut line of sparkling wine is produced every year, the Grand Cru line is produced only in the finest vintages and most people will sooner see the Sasquatch and Loch Ness Monster embroiled in a game of Bacci Ball than a bottle of the rare 100% Pinot Noir Rose (making up less than 9% of their overall production). Each line from Rosell Boher is bottled in imported French glass and can be obtained in only a few select locations.
LAGARDE
Founded in 1897, the Pescarmona family's Bodega Lagarde has long been a quality-minded traditional producer. Each wine that passes through their doors is estate produced and bottled and only 40% of total production makes it out of the country. Looking like a young version of nostalgic American pop singer Donny Osmond, winemaker Juan Roby Stordeur does an effective job of producing Lagarde's top-quality 'Extra Brut' sparkling wine. All of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for this pleasantly dry product (only 4.5 grams/liter of residual sugar) are sourced from the Tupungato region. Like Luigi Bosca's 'Boheme,' the 'Extra Brut' from Lagarde spends 24 months on its lees following its secondary fermentation; but unlike many bubbly wines in the world the 'Extra Brut' sees no malolactic fermentation, leaving it a laser-bright and exquisitely crisp sparkling wine. Incidentally, Lagarde also makes an Italian-style Moscato Giallo-based bubbly produced by the Charmat or 'tank' method. Never mind the technical details with this one, it's seductively sweet peaches and white flower aromas will make you happy that this half-bottle-only product doesn't leave Argentina !
All the above bodegas are in the Lujan de Cuyo district and are easily covered in a one day wine tour with an effervescent theme.
