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The Other Cheek

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It`s every foreigners nightmare – to walk into a crowded room full of Argentines and have to kiss and greet every one of them.  You squeeze past chairs, step around sofas, lean over tables; elbowing pizza and stepping on people in a clumsy effort to do as the locals do.  Finally, satisfied you haven´t omitted or offended anyone, you lean back into a corner and cast a baleful eye for something alcoholic. Suddenly, your phone rings and it´s your rich great aunt sitting in the airport wondering where you are. Its time to make an exit or lose your inheritance but part of you is screaming:

“No! You cannot leave until this entire room empties!”

Frozen with etiquette fright you spot some people doing exactly what you want to do – methodically cheeking and hugging towards the doorway. You get behind them, following their kissing slipstream and hoping nobody thinks you´re an idiot who has suddenly realised he joined the wrong birthday party.

This is why man invented waving and indeed the more savvy of us know that in a situation like this most Argentines just wave.  Its only foreigners who think;

“I must kiss everyone!”

I must kiss everyone that is, except men.  The easy physicality between Argentine males unnerves the Northern European.  Interhugging for us is restricted to weddings, funerals and football games.  So imagine our surprise when an everyday telephone conversation with an Argentine male friend ends with him saying “un beso.”  More disturbing is the urge to say “un beso” back.

I have one English friend who gets around this problem by embracing it enthusiastically. He dispenses wet sloppy kisses to everyone he encounters. So much so he leaves people in his wake wiping the saliva from their faces and remarking how all Europeans are just free thinking perverts.