Sometimes you just don't have enough time. If you only have a fleeting moment in Mendoza, what exactly can you achieve in 24 hours? Michael Holder takes us through the highlights of the city in an exhausting 24 hour whirlwind!
7.12am - Regardless of the day ahead, the alarm clock is always the most horrific sound audible to mankind. It's still dark and cold when I jump into the shower, but by the time I reach the café for breakfast, the sun has made a tentative appearance.
8.16am - The first of my plans immediately goes awry as the waiter in Café Martinez tells me they´ve had a problem with the morning coffee delivery of all things (or so my Spanish understanding gathered), so I take a walk down Sarmiento in hope of some better luck. Arriving at Dun Ken (Peatonal Sarmiento 250), I order 'Breakfast 2' - cappuccino, two croissants and two tortitas (loacal bread). In order to fully immerse myself in the Mendocinos´ world, I also grab a copy of the local newspaper Los Andes. The headline story concerns the Good Friday parade the day before, and appropriately enough I discover an Easter present in the form of a large lump of chocolate at the bottom of my capuccino. Coffee the Argeninean way.
9.15 am –I head to Plaza Independencia for the modern art museum (MAMM). Situated underneath the main fountain in the square in what was originally an emergency hospital, the small gallery is surprisingly easy to miss, much like some modern art itself.In the middle of the gallery there's a covered grand piano with a sign on top saying "Don't move the piano. It has a broken leg." With no artist´s name written on the sign, though, I decide it probably isn't part of the exhibition and divert my attention the real art works on hanging on the walls instead.
Having almost been hypnotised by the strange diagonal lines on Nakilia Cacchiarelli´s 'Serie Converse' painting, I bump into what looks like an apron hanging on the wall with a red, wire-wool penis sewn onto the front. After attempting to extract some meaning from the latter piece ('Sabana Nupcial´by Sara Nieto), I decide it's still too early for my mind to be creative and go in search of something to eat.
10.16am – Fancying a traditional, Argentinean form of sustenance, I pick up some cheese and ham empanadas (small, filled pastries) from a bakery along the way. I then walk through the famous front gates of Parque San Martin, first erected in 1907. The park is huge – bigger than the city itself - so I keep my map close by.
10.55am - After a long walk through the park and a steep but short climb, I reach the top of the Cerro de la Gloria. The views of both the city and the foothills of the Andes from the top are easily worth the climb, but I can't help but feel a slight pang of jealously towards the tourists who arrive in the bus just after me.
11.36am – There isn't much time to admire the memorial statue and the condors flying above, as the day is still young and I need to get all the way to Chacras for some wine tasting. With no time to lose, I swiftly trek back through the park past the tranquil Lake and impressive Museum of Natural Sciences into town.
12.33–When the 116 bus finally arrives, I can't help but notice the bus driver has had his dashboard decked out in red, fluffy velvet in what looks like a mobile shrine to Valentine´s day. His wife must really love him.
14.00 – After strolling through Chacras village admiring the old church and plaza, I finally find the beautiful boutique Clos de Chacras bodega. Our guide, Federico, takes us through the old building and cellars, seemingly able to answer every ridiculous, wine-novice question we throw at him ("do pigeons really eat grapes?"). We learn of the very serious dangers of cleaning wine vats, and that good wines are like old people – "wiser but more delicate."
15.35 - It has turned into a fairly hot, sunny day, so when Federico pours out 4 glasses of excellent Clos Malbec and Merlot by the pond outside, it seems a real shame to have to leave. We end up chatting with Federico for far longer than intended, as the leisurely wine tasting by the fish-filled pond somehow swallows over an hour on its own. My companion swoons and falls for the charming Federico. After several glasses of wine, I fall for the whole place in general and decide wine tasting is a great highlight of Mendoza, but time is ticking away.
17.16 - A wobbly, mildly-drunken bus journey later, it's time to lick away at the best of Argentinean ice cream at Soppelsa. This I do with aplomb, sampling the Vanilla al Malbec (it actually tastes like wine), cherries & cream and pistachio; before settling on a cone filled with super dulce de leche (a must for anyone travelling to Argentina) and banana split. Yum.
18.03 – In an attempt to make up time to learn a little local history, I jump in a taxi to the nearby Plaza de Don Pedro del Castillo. This was the original central plaza in Mendoza before the 1861 earthquake leveled the city. The ruins of the old San Francisco don't terribly impress though - some old rubble here and there, a rather boring museum, and a pleasant enough plaza... but that's basically it.
18.45 - Back to the hostel for a very necessary shower and change. I don't trust myself to even sit down.
19.13 – Not one to pass up on a deal (and having very much acquired the taste for more wine, thanks to Federico and Clos) I head to the Vines of Mendoza for a half price glass of wine, or three. The pretty wine bar offers tastings from countless wineries around Mendoza, and it's an easy way to taste your way around without leaving your seat. For the hell of it, I start with a sparkling wine, in the hope that the bubbles will reinvigorate my dimming energy supplies.
21.31 – Whether it was the bubbles or the two glasses of Malbec that followed, I feel fresh and ready to take on anything at the all-you-can-eat parrilla on Las Heras. I'd heard so much about the mouth-watering steaks in Argentina, but I had heard somewhat less about Argentineans eating the all of the other bits of the cow. Undaunted, I let the morcilla (blood sausage), costillas (ribs), glands, molleja (kidney) and chinchulin (intestine) all pass down my throat. The general verdict would probably have to be smokey, salty, and pretty tasty; except I won't be eating intestines ever again, nor the glands. I even manage to drag my vegetarian companion along on the premise of ´cultural immersion.´ She isn't so impressed though when a fatty-offcut flies into her beer while I carve away at some meat. Oops.
23.13 – Things become more hazy as I head to Aristides – the Mendoza street famous for its many, many bars and party atmosphere. So many, in fact, that it's hard to know where to start. The sickly, medicinal liquor of choice among Argentines is fernet - an acquired taste that does at least improve slightly after a few sips. Slightly. The first bar I visit is even giving out free servings via young women dressed in fernet-branded dressing gowns and cowboy hats. The orange, 1970s decor hardly diverts attention from the weirdness on show.
00.05 – The next bar seems far more normal, but boasts a cat for extra company. My companion falls in love, again.
01.17 – The place to dance on Aristides is Por Aca, and sure enough this is where I end up. The various hits of Jamiroquai seem to be very popular here, as is Franz Ferdinand, which even gets people dancing on tables and radiators in the packed, downstairs area. There's plenty of local and tourist eye-candy, but like most clubs there are far more chicos than chicas. Still, a small group of locals keep passing us beer and shots - certainly a lot friendlier than most clubs I've been to.
03.49 – All that dancing works up an appetite, so it's pancho time. Pancho (hot dog) shops are everywhere, and at 4 in the morning, it's easy to understand why. With countless sauces and toppings on offer, I skip the fuss and just slop some ketchup, mustard and olives on top. I then garnish with the popular ´Lluvia de Papas´ (´rain of potatoes´) - which is a romantic way of saying that I sprinkled some crisps on top. Perfect.
4.30am - Tired, and full of booze and meat, I collapse onto my hostel bed. Not quite 24 hours, I'll admit, but it wouldn't be day on Mendoza without a Siesta somewhere along the way, would it?
Details:
Clos de Chacras, Monte Libano 1025, Chacras de Coria, Luján De cuyo. 496-1285 www.closdechacras.com.ar
The Vines, Espejo 567, www.vinesofmendoza.com
MAMM, Plaza Independencia
