The newcomer on Mendoza's underground scene and already making quite a stir, Gonzalo opened his closed doors restaurant last November in his converted apartment in the bohemian quarter of the city.
As you come into his open home, Gonzalo welcomes you with a glass of wine and a seat by the fireplace where his friendly dog gives you his own greeting with an excited waggle, ready for the inevitable petting, as you sit back to listen to jazz, appreciate the local art and get into the mood for an intimate and relaxed evening of chatter and food. Reservations are per table (either inside or out on the leafy patio) but there is a social environment unlike a restaurant with everyone bonding over travel tales and foodie favourites.
To kick off the 8-course menu we were brought a refreshing chilled pumpkin soup with orange and ginger to start, followed by a spoon of firm octopus with buttery avocado, earthy olives and a gentle spicy kick. A nice welcome that got the taste buds going and ready to see what was awaiting us at the dinner table.
Moving to our respective tables, I took a pew with Gonzalo to talk about how he had come to open Ituzaingo. "It was just an idea one day," he said. "I like the things that happen around the food. It's a cultural thing – everything happens around the food." As he motions outside the two separate groups had moved in to share their wines and food with each other creating one big table. "It's not a restaurant, it's my house. The food comes second, the people and experience are first." There is truth to what he says – the huge difference with home restaurants is that it is more like a dinner party, the
socialising and atmosphere are perhaps more important than what you actually eat. However that isn't to say that the food is second rate – quite the opposite.
With a Peruvian and Argentinean themed menu, Gonzalo and his chef select courses that reflect the region but with a different twist and are adapted to suit a foreigner's taste – notably adding a bit of spice to what is often very mild Argentine cooking. Different courses range from more traditional dishes – like the juicy Peruvian Salmon ceviche with Leche de Tigre, and the typically Argentine beef milanesa but this time stuffed with tender cheese and on a bed of courgette, aubergine and basil: to fusion style dishes such as the quartet of desserts – a light and smooth Dulce-de-leche mousse, a rich cheesecake with blackberry compote, a flan and a baklava-style pasty filled with sweet squash that, as Gonzalo pointed out, worked wonderfully with olive oil and pepper. The menu is playful and unusual which shows the modern global influences in Argentine cooking.
The whole atmosphere is very relaxed – even down to the wine choices. During the meal we tried a couple reds from Gonzalo's varied wine cellar and there is no pressure to pair wines – you can just pick whatever bottle you fancy next. "The thing to remember is that this is a home, I live here," said Gonzalo who treats everyone at the restaurant like old friends. "You come here to enjoy and relax, like you would at your own house." Ituzaingo is as comfortable and intimate as your own house but with the great advantage of a stylish apartment, no washing up and a personal chef which together with Gonzalo's friendly hospitality offer a unique and enjoyable experience.
To contact or make a reservation at Ituzaingo call (261) 15 666 5778 or visit www.ituzaingoresto.com.ar
