A VINTAGE JOURNEY
CHARLIE FOLEY TAKES A WINE TOUR OF LUJAN DE CUYO
Autumn is one of the best times to be in Mendoza; the leaves turning on the vines, the dusty roads still covered by the canopy from Mendoza’s famous trees and the immense mountains rising up from the beautiful landscape. And there is no better way to see this spectacle than with a wine tour. Pulenta Estate was the first stop. Stylish, sophisticated and suave, the bodega supplies Porsche with its wines and it is owned by one of the most famous and powerful Argentine families; the Pulentas. They are the Medici of Florence or the Beckhams of Hollywood and their vineyard shows that power; swathes of grape-laden vines set against the snow capped Andes. This vineyard is stunning and has to be seen to be believed!
“Sip smooth, velvety Malbecs, light, brambly Pinot’s and deep ruby red Cabernets.”
We were greeted by a glass of rosé; nothing better first thing in the morning than a refreshing slurp of plonk. Whilst draining our glasses we viewed old oak barrels used to store the estates premium wines, deep in the dark cellars.
The estate is so stylish it reminds you of a James Bond movie, and you half expect a villain with a little white cat to appear from behind the barrels. Nowhere is this impression more true than in the Tasting Room; a glass walled underground vault where you swirl samples around in your glass and sip smooth, velvety Malbecs, light, brambly Pinot’s and deep ruby red Cabernets.
My favorite vineyard came next. Renacer is a little towered bodega famous both for its Malbecs, yet more so for Enamore; the Argentine cousin of Italian Amarone. The experience at Renacer is very handson and Victtoria made for an exciting guide. She showed us the vineyards, a patchwork of golden and amber leaves framed by the peak of the volcano, and how they prune and harvest the grapes. We tasted the last of the little, dusty Malbec grape and the taste was like rolling the stunning landscape around me into a little ball and swallowing it whole.
In the tower, we were able to play the role of winemaker and blend different varieties of Malbec until we found one that could be the next Gran Reserva. My efforts produced a heavy, tannic wine but the group pulled together and we were able to make a light, spicy wine that we thought could rival the Chateau Haut Brions of this world.
“Visitors names drawn in the dust.”
My belly was rumbling, despite all the crackers and cheese and so off to Ruca Mallen for a sumptuous lunch with a view so breathtaking that you barely notice the elegant five course banquet you are treated to. Each dish is expertly matched to one of the estate wines, a lemon bruschetta with a fresh and zesty sauvignon Blanc, a tender steak with a rich plumy Malbec.
As the staff swirled and twirled around us the group chatted about polo, tango and Eva Peron (well when in Rome!) We left with wine swilling around our eyeballs and a bursting belly.
The last stop of the day was one of Mendoza’s most ancient vineyards, Clos de Chacras, where the vines are almost 80 years old. Hilary, our chirpy Irish guide showed us the massive concrete tanks used to store the wines before the winemakers realized that concrete was porous and so their most precious of liquids was seeping away. The cellars contain thousands of bottles; visitors names drawn in the dust. I added my name to a vintage bottle of Malbec; my imprint on a day which had made a great impression on me.
Charlie Foley took a wine tour with Trout & Wine, Sarmiento 133,
Tel. 4255613; www.troutandwine.com.
An all inclusive tour of Lujan de Cuyo with small groups and special tastings.
CHARLIE FOLEY TAKES A WINE TOUR OF LUJAN DE CUYO
Autumn is one of the best times to be in Mendoza; the leaves turning on the vines, the dusty roads still covered by the canopy from Mendoza’s famous trees and the immense mountains rising up from the beautiful landscape. And there is no better way to see this spectacle than with a wine tour. Pulenta Estate was the first stop. Stylish, sophisticated and suave, the bodega supplies Porsche with its wines and it is owned by one of the most famous and powerful Argentine families; the Pulentas. They are the Medici of Florence or the Beckhams of Hollywood and their vineyard shows that power; swathes of grape-laden vines set against the snow capped Andes. This vineyard is stunning and has to be seen to be believed!
We were greeted by a glass of rosé; nothing better first thing in the morning than a refreshing slurp of plonk. Whilst draining our glasses we viewed old oak barrels used to store the estates premium wines, deep in the dark cellars.
The estate is so stylish it reminds you of a James Bond movie, and you half expect a villain with a little white cat to appear from behind the barrels. Nowhere is this impression more true than in the Tasting Room; a glass walled underground vault where you swirl samples around in your glass and sip smooth, velvety Malbecs, light, brambly Pinot’s and deep ruby red Cabernets.
My favorite vineyard came next. Renacer is a little towered bodega famous both for its Malbecs, yet more so for Enamore; the Argentine cousin of Italian Amarone. The experience at Renacer is very handson and Victtoria made for an exciting guide. She showed us the vineyards, a patchwork of golden and amber leaves framed by the peak of the volcano, and how they prune and harvest the grapes. We tasted the last of the little, dusty Malbec grape and the taste was like rolling the stunning landscape around me into a little ball and swallowing it whole.
In the tower, we were able to play the role of winemaker and blend different varieties of Malbec until we found one that could be the next Gran Reserva. My efforts produced a heavy, tannic wine but the group pulled together and we were able to make a light, spicy wine that we thought could rival the Chateau Haut Brions of this world.
My belly was rumbling, despite all the crackers and cheese and so off to Ruca Malen for a sumptuous lunch with a view so breathtaking that you barely notice the elegant five course banquet you are treated to. Each dish is expertly matched to one of the estate wines, a lemon bruschetta with a fresh and zesty sauvignon Blanc, a tender steak with a rich plumy Malbec.
As the staff swirled and twirled around us the group chatted about polo, tango and Eva Peron (well when in Rome!) We left with wine swilling around our eyeballs and a bursting belly.
The last stop of the day was one of Mendoza’s most ancient vineyards, Clos de Chacras, where the vines are almost 80 years old. Hilary, our chirpy Irish guide showed us the massive concrete tanks used to store the wines before the winemakers realized that concrete was porous and so their most precious of liquids was seeping away. The cellars contain thousands of bottles; visitors names drawn in the dust. I added my name to a vintage bottle of Malbec; my imprint on a day which had made a great impression on me.
Charlie Foley took a wine tour with Trout & Wine, Sarmiento 133,Tel. 425-5613; www.troutandwine.com. An all inclusive tour of Lujan de Cuyo with small groups and special tastings.
