Although living in Argentina is a beautiful life, the malbec dominated wine scene can sometimes lack variety (or vinoriety)... Amanda Barnes goes in search of some excitingly different wines here in Argentina.
The Varietal Game
In Argentina we often get stuck in a varietal rut: the same half dozen varietals in every winery. With over 2000 varieties why does everyone seem to make only a handful of them? Firstly, it's obviously easier to sell a wine everyone knows. And secondly, playing it safe.When precious sales are in the balance no-one wants to risk growing an unusual wine which might or might not work. But experimentation is what leads to innovation and who knows ... a risky winemaker might discover the next Torrontes. I've hunted down some wineries making something different, and even though they might not always work – kudos and enthusiastic applause to their bold courage. As the saying goes: No guts, no glory!
Zuccardi: Innovation and Textual lines
Everyone loves to criticise big, successful wineries – they are an easy target for
critics to pan. But despite Zuccardi's impressive popular success both domestically and internationally, you have to give the Maipu giant credit for their adventuresome spirit. With his own experimentation lab, eldest son Sebastian works with a team of international oenology interns to try out new varietals and methods. Growing over 35 varieties, the family winery plays with different vines to see what works in the terroir. Most of them make it into their 'Innovation' line costing around 28 pesos, and the very best make it up to their 'Textual' line costing 50 pesos. Try out lotsof weird and wonderful varietals such as Ancellotta, Aglianico, Ekigiana, Marselan and a rather good Caladoc. This is one of the most pioneering wineries in Mendoza, and was the first in Argentina to have a premium Tempranillo and really put it on the map.
** If you want to taste all of Zuccardi's weird and wonderful varietals, make sure to get down to the Santa Julia annual tasting on Saturday 19th November. A day long event where you can try every wine in the Santa Julia and Innovacion line while accompanied by food and live music www.santajulia.com.ar
Ceccin: Carignan, Graciana, Muscatel
This completely organic winery can teach the Argentine wine making world a lot. With vineyards over 100 years old, it has been organic throughout its life but also keep to its immigrant roots, still producing two varietals taken from Rioja, Spain: Carignan and Graciana. The Carignan is the oldest vineyard of this varietal in Argentina (from 1961) and it shows, with an elegant complexity in the wine. Starting out slightly picante and peppery with tart raspberries it quickly transforms into delicate expressions of violet and flowers. The Graciana has more recognisable characters of black fruit and pine. And Ceccin make a super sparkling from one of the oldest grapes in the world – Muscatel del Alejandria. This is thought to be the parent of torrontes, but it's good to see momma in the spotlight too! http://www.bodegacecchin.com.ar
Don Bosco: Lambrusco
You might expect a Lambrusco to come from Italy and be a slightly sparkling, pink, cheap table pleaser. But here by the Andes, there is only one Lambrusco being made, and it certainly doesn't sparkle. A dark red wine, it is certainly unique and probably best left in Italy. However you can't but admire this winery which runs on a non-profit charity basis putting wine sales back into the wine institution and monastery where they pay for and educate local young people, keeping wine making accessible for those even from the poorest backgrounds. Along with seeing the oldest cava in South America, one of the world's only wine towers and some pretty cool modern architecture, a visit to this winery will also score you a
taste of their great, hazelnutty sweet muscatel blend. If you can't make it to the winery, pop into the local church - it is also Argentina's mass wine.http://www.donboscorodeo.edu.ar/
Other unusual varietal bottles we recommend from our 2011 Wine Republic Tasting: Semillion – TomeroReserva, Petit Verdot – RucaMalen, Cabernet Franc – Benegas, PetitMensangTardio – Terrazas de los Andes.
The Process Game
We don't just get excited about different grapes, but also the really nerdy things like malolactic fermentation, seeing bubbles where you probably shouldn't and sulphite percentages. If you are a closet wine geek, read on for some of the more unusual processes you can find in the country.
Piattelli: The oaked torrontes
Almost every winery has a torrontes to their collection, but we think there is only one that has dared to put this usually light and fruity varietal in a barrel... The Lujan winery Piatelli started making their oaked torrontes in 2009 and it's actually surprisingly nice! When you first pour your glass the freshness of classic torrontes comes through but that soon gives way to a more subdued buttery wine (nerd note: malolactic fermentation) with a body surprising for torrontes http://www.piattellivineyards.com/.
Zuccardi: Sparkling bonarda
We see Zuccardi rear its head again here, and with good reason. It takes some balls to make a sparkling red wine, and son Sebastian did it with their sparkling Alma 4 bonarda. It's called 'alma 4' (meaning 4 souls) as a homage to 3 of his classmates when he was studying. The story goes that the reason he wanted to make a sparkling red was to prove to his teacher (who said you can't make a drinkable sparkling red) that you can make a good one. A bright, dark red in colour with red fruit on the nose and a hint of bitter chocolate – this is definitely an irresistibly unusual wine experience. http://www.familiazuccardi.com/
Ceccin: Sulphite free, organic and biodynamic
Another feather to Ceccin's bow for us is what they do, or rather don't do, in the vineyard. Mendoza's only 100% organic vineyard and winery that has always been organic and has healthy 100 year old vines to prove it. Owner Alberto gets out the quartz and cow bells when he needs it, but maintains that being biodynamic and organic in Mendoza is really quite simple enough and there is no excuse for anyone else not doing it! And to top off their green credentials, Ceccin make a completely sulphite-free malbec which Alberto guarantees that, no matter how much you drink, it will never give you a headache in the morning. Now there's a good incentive to drink more. They also make a pretty cool Malbec Rose with Torrontes in it.
Renacer: Enamore
Once you have had a few too many glasses of Enamore you might be able to see
the word Amarone, and that is what this wine is – an amarone. Apart from making you put on an Italian accent, amarone is a traditional Italian wine made with the appasimento technique, where you dry out the grapes until they lose a third of their weight and then are made into a richer, more concentrated wine with raisin aromas. Basically all this wine talk translates into something delicious. http://www.bodegarenacer.com.ar/
Las Perdices: Ice Wine
You are not actually allowed to call this 'ice wine', because ice wine can only be made when grapes freeze on the vine. But ignoring wine stiffs, it's pretty much the same thing: a late harvest wine frozen (in a freezer, Mendoza doesn't have much ice/snow in the summer) to make a concentrated, fruity and potently sweet malbec.
The Pairing Game: Chandon
It's no secret that the bodegas in Mendoza harbour some of the best foodie experiences in the region, but pairings with wine can often lead to the same combinations: an oaked Malbec with steak, a Sauvignon Blanc with goats' cheese, late harvest torrontes with pudding... I don't want to shun it, because they are all formulas that work, but one winery is really pushing the boat out with its 
'maridajes' (pairings) and for that you have to give them serious credit: Chandon and its complete sparkling wine paired lunch.
The large French-owned winery was the original foreign investor in Argentina, and is still at the helm of sparkling wine production here. But last year it turned its hand to an innovative pairing game – a six course tasting menu matched to exclusively sparkling wines. Everyone loves fizz with smoked salmon, but can you really sit a frothy glass of bubbles next to one of the famous hunks of Argentine beef? It turns out you can.
Being French owned, you might think the restaurant would go down the French cuisine route, but Head Chef Marcos Zabaleta says that you can't limit yourself when pairing with unusual wines – the cuisine has to come from the wine it is paired with. "I don't have a style of food, the style is born from the pairing," he says from their stylish Lujan restaurant. "The idea is to look for a partner to go with the wine."
And as you imagine with delicate fizzies, that can be quite a challenge. "Fats and creams are the enemy of sparkling wine," spills Carlos, "and you have to be very careful with your acids and how you cook things. But actually people are always surprised that there is so much that can go with sparkling wine." Like most people that come for lunch or dinner at the winery, I was surprised that there were so many different things on the menu – I could quite easily see why light seafood dishes figured on the menu, but empanadas
and steak? Really?
Yes. Marcos divulges his top bubbly pairing trump – the more structured Baron B Pinot Noir with asados or meaty empanadas! The stronger structure of the pinot gives you a meatier pairing and means you can sit them quite happily together. He also adds mushrooms, basil and a chorizo cream to the steak to pair with the Pinot.
It's not just flavours that should be considered, but textures are of prime importance. The starter of king prawns on truffle infused polenta was an outstanding combination: the grainy texture of the polenta with rich and deep truffle oil, sweet and sour onion marmalade, and a small handful of succulent prawns was washed down well with a buttery and well-structured Baron B Extra Brut which cleaned the palate but left a lingering harmony with the truffle flavours.
Dessert, which most people assume is the obvious pairing, is not always as simple as it seems. With the Chandon Rose Extra Brut the strawberries and red fruits in the nose would prompt amateurs to try and pair it with a red fruit dessert perhaps, but Marcos says this is a mistake and you have to be careful pairing with acids. And the proof is certainly in the pudding: the menu chooses to contrast the fruity wine with a cool, creamy Dulce de Leche parfait and bitter, caramelised almonds – a clever play on flavours and textures in the mouth.
This unique pairing menu is making quite a few converts here in Mendoza and is certainly a very innovative and interesting wine experience. I look forward to the day we see sparkling wine by the side of everyone's asado!
Chandon is in Agrelo, Lujan: RP 15, Km 29. (261) 490 9968 www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
The restaurant is open from 12.30 to 3.30 Mon – Fri and requires a pre-reservation, it is also open in evening with further notice.
