The wine producing region around Salta is the highest in the world with vineyards soaring over 3000 meters above sea level. Amanda Barnes gets a taste for wine at high altitude.
I know this is going to sound stupid, but I am going to say it anyway. What really surprised me about flying into Salta in the north west of Argentina was that the Andes mountains were visible from both sides of the plane. As a consistently disorientated person who relies on the mountain range as a point of reference in navigating Mendoza, this was a real mind blower that you could stand on flat land and have the mountains all around you. It's a lovely place to fly into.
As you arrive at the airport you may well think that you are being singled out as a tourist as the taxi drivers approach you dressed as gauchos,but actually it's more a case of being the other way around- the gauchos are pretending to be taxi drivers. Perhaps surprising in the rather homogenously westernised 21st century, but locals actually choose to still wear their gaucho get ups. It actually feels like you are in a foreign country for once.
The Road to Cafayate
The wine heartland, Cafayate, is almost 200km south of Salta city, which might
seem like a pain after a flight, or worse, a 12-hour bus journey. But do not despair – the journey there is totally worth it. Leaving the rather green Salteña landscape you pass tabacco fields and agricultural crops before moving into the desert landscape of white sands, pastel hued mountain sides and great juts of burning red rock, interspersed with tall three fingered cactus. You could be forgiven for thinking that some of these spears of rock have only just erupted from the earth's crust as they look very youthful for their 65 million years. The whole journey takes about three hours by car but there are loads of stop offs which will inevitably make you want to spend a bit longer 'en route'.
Adrenaline junkies might want to stop off at the Cabra Corral dam to partake in some kayaking, diving to see underwater petrified forests or taking off on the 700m canopy line. For those more on a gastronomy and wine mission the 'Puesta de Cabras' is the original halfway house. Run by Porteno Adrian and his partner Mercedes, here you can dig into a picada with their homemade goat's cheese, or get a coffee and indulge in one of their cakes or desserts (make sure to try the goat's cheese dulce de leche). If you fall in love with the place, there are some rustic cabins with a swimming pool for overnight guests.
Eager to crack open some of the local wine? There is a small artisanal winery about twenty minutes up the road. Turn off onto a dirt track for Finca Las Curtiembres, a quaint family winery set against a stunning red backdrop, here you can try Nestor's artisanal wines and soak up the gorgeous scenery.Finca Las Curtiembres, RutaNacional 68km, tel 0387 155 736655.
Further up the Ruta Nacional there is an interesting rock formation named La Garganta del Diablo (the devil's throat) because of its scarily concave shape which looks like a Lucifer's windpipe thrown back in evil laughter. Bring your trainers and climb as far back as you dare. Around the corner is a similar formation although this time much narrower and cylindrical – the amphitheatre. With great acoustics, this is the place to try out your best Freddie Mercury impression.
Along the rest of the route there is no shortage of outstanding rock formations to get a geologist sweaty and the rest of us awestruck or amused. Unusual rocks include what look like castles, a monk and doppelganger image of a large toad – completely weathered down by the sun, rain and wind. One day this will certainly slim down to be a prince of some sort.
Arriving into Cafayate from such a wild landscape, it feels like a different world – neat vines and Spanish architecture line the wide streets. Although the small town of Cafayate is pretty much your average rural Argentine hamlet, what stands out are the colonial style houses with attractive balconies and arcades around the main plaza.
The plaza is a hub of restaurants, tourist shops and a small artisan market, but the big orange church is probably the most iconic building in the town. The funniest building in town however is on the corner of the plaza, the local bank. Looking completely out of place and with good reason, this bank was designed to withstand heavy snowfall – surprising as Cafayate barely receives a thimbleful a year. This was the result of a fatal communication error between architects and delivery man – the bank was supposed to be for snowy El Calafate some 2700kms further south. So there it stands, an expensive spelling mistake in all its glory.
Another notable building in the centre of Cafayate is the llama shaped house of a local artisan.Half-finished, it sits directly opposite the new new Museo de la Vid y el Vino (Museum of Life and Wine). The biggest wine museum of its type in Latin America, this interactive museum was opened earlier this year and has walk-through exhibitions on the extreme conditions of Cafayate, the climate, geography, soil, history and wine making process – complete with non-stop sound effects, light shows and such sensual, poetic descriptions of the plants, they would make the more liberal gardener blush. For information on visiting wineries in the region, visit the information centre around the corner.
One of the most cultural experiences in the town centre is to go to the last remaining 'pulperia' in Cafayate. Here you can get natural remedies for impotence (by chewing a stinky hard root), lots of spices and dried herbs, llama wool, broken ceramics, a mug of wine and a bit of salami with the locals. You can even buy coca leaf.
There are only a few places in the world where you can talk about taking coke without anyone batting an eyelid – and Salta is one of them. Saying 'Anochecoci' (I got coked last night) is perfectly acceptable in any conversation. Of course 'getting coked' in Salta is referring to sucking coca leaves and not any illegal white powder. Being the ever clichéd tourist, I obviously wanted to try some. Locals suck on the leaves to help with headaches from altitude sickness, aid digestion and to keep them awake during long nights. Stock piling it intoone cheek like a hamster, a good 'bola' (coca ball in your cheek) can build up over a few hours and when you get to the point that you can no longer open your mouth to put any more in, that's when you spit it out and start again. To be honest it tastes a bit like sucking tea leaves although it does give you a bit of a wakeup, especially if you chew it by mistake. And yes, it does help a 'resaca' (hangover).
The Wineries of Cafayate
Before numbing your mouth on coca though, taking in thewineries in Cafayate is on the top of everyone's agenda. The great thing about Cafayate town is its size and proximity to over 40 wineries. You can easily walk or cycle between the wineries here (though there are some in different valleys which require a car or even a 4x4).
Vasija Secreta
Probably one of the oldest and most touristic is VasijaSecreta. Busloads of tourists get dropped off at this 1857 winery which is just out of the town centre with green vines stretching far up towards the mountains. Golden oldies all toast each other and natter in the courtyard while waiting to jump on the next guided tour and then later haul case loads of the cheapest wine to their tour buses, making it quite an entertaining if slightly claustrophobic place to visit. A small wine history museum, quaint tasting room and shabby historical decadence make it a nice visit along with its restaurant which serves simple, local dishes including tamales and stew. Antigua Bodega VasijaSecreta, Ruta 40, tel 3868 421850
San Pedro de Yacochuya
One of the best knownfamilies making wine in Salta is Etchart. They really put Torrontes on the map and the Etchart family have numerous projects in the area including one of the critics'favourite – San Pedro de Yacochuya. This is a much more boutique production of wines which the family started making with the French oenologist Michel Rolland. Its small production of Malbec and Torrontes have risen greatly in stature and these wines regularly score over 91 points in famous
international competitions. Located at the heights of Yacochuya, the winery has a sweeping view over the entire Cafayate basin and mountain range. It makes for an incredible postcard. At 2,035m, the 80-year old vines have a more challenging terroir and climate with less sunshine and slower ripening then further below, resulting in wines with lots of tannins, colour and structure. Following the Rolland style, these wines have a good amount of time in French oak and are certainly keepers. But don't let all the points and hype mislead you , this is actually quite a quaint visit as the winery is an unimposing small warehouse with all the latest technology, local artwork and stunning views. If you get to meet owner Marcos Etchart, you are in for a treat with his refreshingly bohemian approach that gives a visit to this winery a really personal touch. Reservations required for wine tasting.San Pedro de Yacachuya, RutaProv No2 km6, tel 03868 15 400 890.
El Esteco
Coming back down to earth, another winery worth a visit is El Esteco. One of the landmark whitewashed colonial style wineries in the city, this is one of the most historical wineries in Argentina and has quite a legacy from its founders, the famed Michel Torino brothers, in 1892. The beautiful bodega has relics of its long wine making history throughout, from its fireplaces to heat fermenting wine in pools, to the enormous vats from its mass production heyday. Nowadays it's a smaller operation although it still pulls in enormous figures as the sixth biggest exporter in Argentine wine. You can pick from a hundred different tours, activities and tastings, but we especially recommend trying the Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon and their icon blends. El Esteco,Ruta 40 y Ruta 68, tel 03868 421139
Pena Veyret Durbex
To get the feel of a more boutique production in Cafayate, Pena Veyret Durbex is a perfect visit. 20kms out of town back on the route to Salta, this is a charmingly rustic boutique hotel and winery in another stunning landscape. Feeling completely away from it all in the middle of the valley with nothing more than a few goats around you, this is a really attractive detour. The winemaker can take you around the single small production room in no time and show you all the processes in a few square meters. They make a delicate and subtle Torrontes, an elegant Malbec and a lightly peppered Cabernet Sauvignon, all great value for money. It is also a nice spot for lunch and if you can't tear yourself away, there is a hotel just upstairs.Pena Veyret Durbex, RutaNacional Km 18,5, tel 03868 421555
Salta City
You won't want to leave gorgeous Cafayate, but do save some time for Salta city. A bit shabby all over, its faded colonial glamour gives it quite an atmosphere and the lively Saltenos certainly make it a fun visit. During the day there are a handful of 
museums to take a look around, including the MAAM which houses three Inca mummies found in the Andes and shown on rotation. All around the main plaza there are attractive buildings and postcard perfect churches. The pale pink Cathedral on the plaza is the iconic landmark most photographed here, but around the corner the Malbec red San Francisco is perhaps more striking with its exuberant tsarist Russia style.
Salta has a really traditional feel to it and that's reflected in the products and cuisine. This is the ideal place for shopping for artisan products and there are countless artisan stores in the city but the best place to burn a few pesos is at the Mercado Artisanal just out of the city centre. An indoor market with bonafide craftsmanship, here you can find lots of silverwork, wood carving and the ubiquitous llama wool jumpers. Across the road is a Bolivian street market with a much tackier feel.
You'll find lots of traditional street food in Salta city – with tamales and humita being served up by native women on every other street corner. Make sure to try some. Restaurants range from good to standard but if you want to do a spot of wine tasting with your dinner, check out the vinoteca-cum-winebar-cum-restaurant FuisteUva. This popular and trendy (for Salta) wine bar has a good range of wines from Salta and further down the Andes. Here you can try by the glass or bottle and quaff away whilst nibbling on a picada or their gastro pub style dishes.Nightlife in Salta shouldn't be missed either and the of course the famous pena is a must for any visit.
Where to stay
In Salta city you will find plenty of hotels and hostels to fit most budgets. Upmarket options include the two five-star hotels in the city centre, the Alejandro Primero and the Sheraton, while more moderate prices can be found at Hotel Almeria and Hotel Salta. For backpackers Los Cardones Youth Hostel is right next to the main bar
strip.
In Cafayate the most indulgent stay must be the luxurious Spanish style villa Patios de Cafayate (www.patiosdecafayate.com). Attached to El Esteco winery, this spacious white hotel has a gorgeous garden with a pool overlooking hillsides, a wine spa, nicely appointed rooms and, of course, lots of pretty patios. If you can't splash out on one of the lovely wine lodges there is also a youth hostel in the city centre.
Wines to try
Yacachuya, Malbec: This is quite an intense wine with lots of black fruit, red pepper, violet and vanilla. This very meaty wine with great aging potential is also immediatley drinkable with a smooth and rounded finish. This was one of the more interesting wines at our Wine Republic Annual Tasting 2011 and shows a completely different side of Malbec.
Amalaya, Gran Corte: A really easy drinking blend from a new winery with lots of fresh fruit and a bit of spice behind. Malbec led, with10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Tannat from this new winery.
Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon, El Esteco: The Cabernet Sauvignons from the region are really interesting and this one has lots of spice and ripe fruit to really hit the spot.
VOS Torrontes, VasijaSecreta: A bright yellow Torrontes with classic banana, melon and coconut but a nice creaminess from being finished in oak.
Alta Vista Premium Torrontes: One of our favourite Torrontes being made in Salta is actually produced by the Mendoza winery Alta Vista. Well balanced with good fruit, acidity and minerality. Another top scorer from our 2011 Tasting.
**For information on all the wineries and wine regions in Argentina, Bodegas de Argentina should be on the top of your contact list. The organisation promotes wine tourism in the country and can provide information for the different wine routes, including Salta and Cafayate www.bodegasdeargentina.org
